Casa Aranya is a 1907 Portuguese house in Assagao with eight rooms, one long table, and no reception desk. Someone will be in the courtyard when you arrive. There is no minibar, no room service after nine, and no television anywhere in the building.
What there is: forty-foot ceilings, a pool nobody is loud in, breakfast until eleven, and a cook who will make you what she is making for herself if you ask nicely.
T H E G A R D E N R O O M S
Original stone floors, a door straight onto the courtyard, and a bathroom bigger than the bedroom. ₹9,400 a night.
T H E U P P E R R O O M S
Beamed ceilings, a private balcony over the coconut grove, and the best light in the house between four and six. ₹12,800 a night.
T H E L O N G R O O M
The old drawing room: a four-poster, a working fireplace nobody needs, and two walls of shuttered windows. ₹16,200 a night.
Dinner is at eight, at one table, for whoever is in the house. There is no menu and no choice — Fatima cooks what the market had, which in September means a great deal of kingfish and, if you are lucky, the crab. ₹1,600 a head, wine extra, and you may of course go out instead.
Breakfast runs until eleven, on the veranda, and is included. Nobody will ask you what time you would like it.
“We did not speak to a member of staff in the conventional sense for four days, and yet everything was already done. I have stayed in a great many hotels and this is the only one I have wanted to keep to myself.”
Devika Shah
Stayed four nights, February 2026
Tell us your dates and how many of you there are. Somebody replies personally, usually the same day.